It was an adhoc decision to walk up to Purandhar fort on tuesday... after an initial hiccup from Sam who got news from the campsite there that it had been raining cats and dogs! But as Ashok had got sandwiches and my coffee was all hot in the pot along with its accompaniment of banana bread we decided to risk it and have a day out anyway. Week days are good to get out of the city and into the hills with little traffic and less local picnickers.
The drive was quick, barely an hour, and we wound our way up in the luxury of a big car, all dry and warm out of the rain, watching the drenched landscape with long horned bulls working in the fields. It seems this year there is an extra month in the hindu calender and everything is coming a month later in the Julian calender.. therefore the late rains. People were now ploughing, heaving a sigh of relief that there was a monsoon finally. We were in the rain shadow of the hills on which Purandhar was located. There were massive clouds sitting on top of the fort, obscuring it from view. We were in for a wet walk.
We drove up to the military barracks, passing two old stone churches, desolate, their gothic arched windows letting in streamers of mist. The stone is solid and gray, weathered but standing firm through the years. The same stone has been hewn out of the land and used to build the fort. There are old houses with lavish british verandehs overlooking marvelous views of the valley, and rooms with fireplaces where the british officers used to live. All of them are now being repaired as the army has decided to move in again. WE get off at these barrack where there is a car park. With raincoats on, and coffee and food stashed in the backpacks, we set off in a downpour. The path is well defined and paved with stone, a bit slippery. Soon it is flowing with water and we are walking in a stream with little rills and splashes, mud being washed down from the hillside. The walls and gate of the fort loom ahead and we duck under the arch for a brief stop when the rain lashes down suddenly, fiercer than before. When it stops for a brief moment we are surrounded by cloud, with not a glimpse of the valley below. Sam checks out his spot to hold a rappeling course on Sunday.
We are soon surrounded by a whole village of people walking up to the temple. Its a special occasion it seems and there are many villagers going up to it. The women are in thin cotton saris, soaked to the skin and barefoot. Children go up too, covered by a towel. They were chanting the lord's name as they went up. The men coax and cajole the older ones as we near the top where there is a Shiva temple. We pass magnificent old stone tanks to store water from the rain and springs, overhung by rock and green ferns protecting it from the heat of the sun. Modern man has left its mark in the shape of plastic bottles and garbage. There is a final flight of stairs up to the temple. One old lady decides to sit at the foot of them refusing to go any further. The temple is built on the most delightful spot, with 360 degree views, a canopied Nandi outside it. I remember it from a trek in winter, a sunny tranquil spot to sit and soak in the views. Now it is cold and windy, dripping with rain. The temple is full of shivering villagers singing bhajans. When they leave the three of us go in. The shrine is clean inside the inner temple, smelling sweetly of incense and calm and peace reigns near the lingam. There is a small oil lamp burning, no priest. We duck out to the room outside which has turned wet from the clothes of the dripping villagers. Perched on a small ledge we manage to drink hot coffee out of the plastice box( forgot to get the glasses up) and wolf down the tastiest sandwiches, courtesy Ashok!
 |
| Ashok getting ready for the sandwiches! |
After taking in a bit more of the mist, that passed for the view, we set off down again in torrential rain. The umbrellas were completly redundant and turned inside out with the force of the wind. My new mauve raincoat turned out to be 100% waterproof as promised by the shopkeepr... finally!
 |
| Raincoat works! |
Inspite of all the rain, the wet and dirty shoes, it was a wonderful walk , cool and green, with time to stop and chat. The climb is easy and well defined. Good for all ages. Once we reached the barracks the views opened up a bit and we saw the surrounding valley with farmlands and villages.
 |
| Views below Purandhar. |
On the way back we stopped at an old temple, but with soaked shoes and wet clothes my heart wasnt in it inspite of the beautiful turtle carved on the floor below the ancient brass bell. Soon we were back home to hot baths and dry clothes. All in all a satisfying dy out.
